On Wednesday, the six of us headed off, each couple in its own vehicle (we are Americans, after all), towards Limoux where we spent two nights at the Domaine St. Georges, a very nice and comfortable B&B run by a British couple. By shifting our home base a couple of hours to the west, it opened up more day trip possibilities.
Although we were all headed to the same destination, we made no plans to rendezvous at any other predetermined location. We plugged the address of an intermediate spot into our GPS and headed off. Once again, Natalie, the navigatrix, selected the most scenic route for us. We could hardly complain as the countryside is so spectaculary beautiful right now. Tuesday’s rain gradually gave way to a sunny Wednesday and the fall colors seemed to be illuminated from within.
Our first stop was in Lezignan Corbiere because it was market day there and we have a hard time passing up a market; they are just so darned colorful and fun. No expensive cookies this time but I did find poppy seeds (for a dish I am fixing later this week) and cheese and pepper confiture. I wasn’t planning on buying cheese but the vendor was so engaging with his banter and his samples that he was impossible to resist.
From Lezignan, we drove on to Lagrasse, a beautiful old village with an abbey. What a surprise . . . a village with an abbey! After having a reconnoiter, neither Michael nor I was interested in wandering through another abbey, so, we wandered through the village instead. Michael’s primary interest being to find a WC, which we did eventually locate. I can tell that his ability to appreciate the village had been hampered by his WC needs because he still can’t remember a thing about the village itself.
We ended up in Limoux in time for a nice lunch on the main square. We purposefully sat outside in the sun and were much more well done than Michael’s steak hache (chopped steak). Both of us had ordered off the three course menu. Mine was the 10.50 menu and Michael’s the 11.50. The menu included a starter, a main course, dessert and coffee . . . a bargain except for one thing: When it came time to order dessert, we had no idea what the waitress was telling us. She pointed to what people at the table next to us were having and we nodded our heads indicating that we would go for that, too. It was a large selection of small dessert bites and seemed to be incredibly generous for such a reasonably priced meal. Well, it was. Turns out we had opted for something that was not included in the menu and we ended up paying an extra 7 euros EACH for our ignorance. Another reason to learn a few words of French.
Limoux is known for its sparkling wine (supposedly discovered earlier than was champagne) and Michael and I purchased a couple of bottles to take to the B&B.
The B&B was lovely and the hosts, Maureen and John, were generous with their care, suggestions, and kindness.